A roundup of our trip
Monday, July 30, 2012
Shout outs
This is the post where those special people who preformed random acts of kindness and those that help make our journey memorable get a mention most will never see but their acts of kindness have not gone unnoticed or recorded.
Heather, Joyce, Ann the staff at the Pentagoet for taking good care of us especially dad.
Ben who no longer works at the Pentagoet but will be attending medical school
Dick, Mike, another Dick, Helena, Robert the drug therapist and the South Carolina couple who provided interesting conversation and enjoyable nights talking.
Paul the owner of the Inn at Babson Court
Ted the colorful owner of the Derby Square Bookstore in Salem
Julie the grand dame of the Pentagoet who is everywhere Jack never seems to be----working.
And of course Jack, raconteur extraordinaire who presides over one of the great bars in the world The Passport Pub.
Inn at Babson Court: Review
Pros:
Location overlooks water
Price
Beautiful rooms and design
Large Rooms
Nice owner Paul
Close to everything walking distance.
Near all main roads so driving everywhere is easy.
Rose garden
Nice downstairs outside sitting
Quiet
A real treat of muffins and sweet cakes in morning brought to your door.
Con:
Overlooks main esplanade so if light sleeper the car sounds you hear might be an issue
No much closet space for extended stay with a woman but doable
Netural:
Bed hard but not a problem for me.
Location overlooks water
Price
Beautiful rooms and design
Large Rooms
Nice owner Paul
Close to everything walking distance.
Near all main roads so driving everywhere is easy.
Rose garden
Nice downstairs outside sitting
Quiet
A real treat of muffins and sweet cakes in morning brought to your door.
Con:
Overlooks main esplanade so if light sleeper the car sounds you hear might be an issue
No much closet space for extended stay with a woman but doable
Netural:
Bed hard but not a problem for me.
Traveling with Bill and Sarah: An Observation
Well traveling as a threesome was certainly more stressful. Sarah had the task of balancing herself between two men in her life. She has the responsibility of having to make sure she divided her attention to each of us. Her wanting to balance the needs of two men while carving out some time for herself was not an enviable position. She was further stressed by dad's drinking and at times petulant behavior. I believed she found a rhythm towards the end where everything coexisted while not totally stress free, but kept in a easier place to handle.
I felt a kind of pulling myself of wanting to spend romantic time with my wife, yet having to navigate the minefield of stress she was feeling with dad. I have a certain relationship and way I take care of Dad. It works for me. My approach uses humor and self depreciating comments, along with directness at times, to get dad to look at his behavior. Needless to say, that approach did not always sit well with Sarah. I felt the need to handle more and with more care. The contrast of styles of caregiving led to stress. I am at ease when traveling alone with dad that if lousy events happen from hotels to food choices and everything in between he is fine and views it as part of the experience. I felt the stress of not wanting things to go wrong which I do not feel when traveling alone or just with dad. In fairness to Sarah, I have found I feel that more when traveling with any woman than a man. The process of traveling as oppose to the content. I work best when I am in charge of someone's care. The sharing of care was stressful as I did not at times know when to talk or shut up (always an issue with me, the shutting up that is). Through all the stress of this trip, Sarah and I had a breakthrough and reached new level of closeness and understanding. I do not know how to explain or how it came about but it just seem to happen. We got closer in spite of the stress.
This has been as we say in therapy, a learning experience. We can take what worked, what did not
and what we need to do differently. We all love Dad so it is not a matter of right and wrong but
allowing each of us to care give in our own way and respect the other person's ability to do it their
way.
I felt a kind of pulling myself of wanting to spend romantic time with my wife, yet having to navigate the minefield of stress she was feeling with dad. I have a certain relationship and way I take care of Dad. It works for me. My approach uses humor and self depreciating comments, along with directness at times, to get dad to look at his behavior. Needless to say, that approach did not always sit well with Sarah. I felt the need to handle more and with more care. The contrast of styles of caregiving led to stress. I am at ease when traveling alone with dad that if lousy events happen from hotels to food choices and everything in between he is fine and views it as part of the experience. I felt the stress of not wanting things to go wrong which I do not feel when traveling alone or just with dad. In fairness to Sarah, I have found I feel that more when traveling with any woman than a man. The process of traveling as oppose to the content. I work best when I am in charge of someone's care. The sharing of care was stressful as I did not at times know when to talk or shut up (always an issue with me, the shutting up that is). Through all the stress of this trip, Sarah and I had a breakthrough and reached new level of closeness and understanding. I do not know how to explain or how it came about but it just seem to happen. We got closer in spite of the stress.
This has been as we say in therapy, a learning experience. We can take what worked, what did not
and what we need to do differently. We all love Dad so it is not a matter of right and wrong but
allowing each of us to care give in our own way and respect the other person's ability to do it their
way.
The Derby Book Store: Salem
This has to get its own blog post. The Derby Square Book Store is one of the great book stores in the world. An institution that should go on forever and while I love my kindle there is no place that can match a joint like this for atmosphere and the heart to keep going in a digital age. There are books everywhere, I mean everywhere.
We were walking down the main tourist street in Salem when my eye catches a book shelve leaning over like the Tower of Pisa from the weight of so many books. I said the Bill, I have to stop and take a photo. Our curiosity peaked and we strolled inside to see.....books, books, stacked to the ceiling, sideways, vertical so many book on the counter you could not see the cashier save for a slight cutout where he was visible. So as we walk toward going in, I hear this voice bidding us welcome but could not figure out from where it was coming. Finally, I see Ted the owner. A heavy set guy in a beard saying hello and whom lets us know if we need anything to just holler.
Now, I have to admit, I have become a kindle man but not today. We looked around, down aisles that were so narrow only one person could fit. On either side of us in the aisle books framed us in a tight squeeze as you were always hearing people saying excuse me trying to get by while others were intensely searching for books. It was organize chaos as there seemed to be at first glance no system but once in the store for a bit you noticed a method to the madness. Books are all 50% off, mostly paperbacks. Ted explained he buys Books from stores that have gone out of business.
May this store stay in business to the end of time. Here are some wonderful photos. It was so tight in their, I felt awkward attempting to take photos.
We were walking down the main tourist street in Salem when my eye catches a book shelve leaning over like the Tower of Pisa from the weight of so many books. I said the Bill, I have to stop and take a photo. Our curiosity peaked and we strolled inside to see.....books, books, stacked to the ceiling, sideways, vertical so many book on the counter you could not see the cashier save for a slight cutout where he was visible. So as we walk toward going in, I hear this voice bidding us welcome but could not figure out from where it was coming. Finally, I see Ted the owner. A heavy set guy in a beard saying hello and whom lets us know if we need anything to just holler.
Now, I have to admit, I have become a kindle man but not today. We looked around, down aisles that were so narrow only one person could fit. On either side of us in the aisle books framed us in a tight squeeze as you were always hearing people saying excuse me trying to get by while others were intensely searching for books. It was organize chaos as there seemed to be at first glance no system but once in the store for a bit you noticed a method to the madness. Books are all 50% off, mostly paperbacks. Ted explained he buys Books from stores that have gone out of business.
May this store stay in business to the end of time. Here are some wonderful photos. It was so tight in their, I felt awkward attempting to take photos.
Ted, book store owner
The shelf that drew me into the store
Salem Drive....
After our fulfilling visit to Hammond's Castle, it was time to drive down the south coast to Salem. The drive alternated between woods and coastline with magnificent houses either nestled in the woods or jutting out onto the water. We were in no rush so we took our time going down the coast. When we arrived at Salem, we decided to stop and visit the town and take a moment to wet our whistles. We were parched.
Salem is famous for the witch trials and since the advent of tourism they have been capitalizing on those witches everywhere you look. Every bock seems to have a museum, shop, bookstore, and tee shirts dedicated to the macabre. A nice setting for a Stephen King novel. It was a great day to walk as the weather was perfect with no humidity. We took a nice long walk with the only thing we went inside to see was an iconic bookstore. We made it to the Hawthorne Hotel and stopped for a drink...
Afterwards as we are walking, we pass a tattoo parlor where Bill proclaims his wish to always want to get a tattoo. I said Bill do me a favor, if you get a tattoo get it when you are hanging out with Rick or Tom not on my watch. This way Martha or Bronwyn have to deal with their guys. He laugh and said "those daughters."
Salem is famous for the witch trials and since the advent of tourism they have been capitalizing on those witches everywhere you look. Every bock seems to have a museum, shop, bookstore, and tee shirts dedicated to the macabre. A nice setting for a Stephen King novel. It was a great day to walk as the weather was perfect with no humidity. We took a nice long walk with the only thing we went inside to see was an iconic bookstore. We made it to the Hawthorne Hotel and stopped for a drink...
Afterwards as we are walking, we pass a tattoo parlor where Bill proclaims his wish to always want to get a tattoo. I said Bill do me a favor, if you get a tattoo get it when you are hanging out with Rick or Tom not on my watch. This way Martha or Bronwyn have to deal with their guys. He laugh and said "those daughters."
Town Hall where it all might have begun.
Bill and I are respected here and for good reason.....
Me taking a photo with the last known person who got in the way of the "daughters"
Hammond Castle: History of
John Hays Hammond, Jr. built his medieval-style castle between the years 1926 and 1929 to serve both as his home and as a backdrop for his collection of Roman, medieval, and Renaissance artifacts. The castle was constructed as a wedding present for his wife Irene Fenton Hammond to prove how much he cared for her. In addition, the building housed the Hammond Research Corporation, from which Dr. Hammond produced over 400 patents and the ideas for over 800 inventions. Second only to Thomas Alva Edison in number of patents, John Hammond was one of America's premier inventors. His most important work was the development of remote control via radio waves, which earned him the title, "The Father of Remote Control."
Visitors to Hammond Castle Museum are welcome to explore the castle on a self-guided tour of many rooms (map supplied) including the great hall, indoor courtyard, Renaissance dining room, two guest bedrooms, the inventions exhibit room, the library, the War room, the kitchens, the Natalie Hays Hammond exhibit room, servants quarters, as well as several smaller rooms and passage ways including a secret passageway. We suggest that you start your tour in our AV theater where you can view a short film on the life and times of the Hammonds.
Visitors may also enjoy the beauty of the castle grounds and a view of the Atlantic shore line while strolling through our gardens or sitting on a bench taking in that view..
"For the last three years I motored many miles through Europe. After traveling all day, I would arrive at my destination to see a church, a cathedral, a town hall, a scrap of Roman wall or viaduct, a colosseum or an ancient theatre. It was always a piece of architecture that suddenly dissipated the obscurity of time and brought the living presence back of all ages. It is in the stones and wood that the personal record of man comes down to us. We call it atmosphere, this indescribable something that still haunts old monuments. You can read history, you can visit a hundred museums containing their handiwork, but nothing can reincarnate their spirit except to walk through rooms in which they have lived and through the scenes that were the background of their lives. It is a marvelous thing, this expression of human ideals in walls and windows."
(John Hays Hammond, Jr., Unpublished letter, 1929)
Visitors to Hammond Castle Museum are welcome to explore the castle on a self-guided tour of many rooms (map supplied) including the great hall, indoor courtyard, Renaissance dining room, two guest bedrooms, the inventions exhibit room, the library, the War room, the kitchens, the Natalie Hays Hammond exhibit room, servants quarters, as well as several smaller rooms and passage ways including a secret passageway. We suggest that you start your tour in our AV theater where you can view a short film on the life and times of the Hammonds.
Visitors may also enjoy the beauty of the castle grounds and a view of the Atlantic shore line while strolling through our gardens or sitting on a bench taking in that view..
"For the last three years I motored many miles through Europe. After traveling all day, I would arrive at my destination to see a church, a cathedral, a town hall, a scrap of Roman wall or viaduct, a colosseum or an ancient theatre. It was always a piece of architecture that suddenly dissipated the obscurity of time and brought the living presence back of all ages. It is in the stones and wood that the personal record of man comes down to us. We call it atmosphere, this indescribable something that still haunts old monuments. You can read history, you can visit a hundred museums containing their handiwork, but nothing can reincarnate their spirit except to walk through rooms in which they have lived and through the scenes that were the background of their lives. It is a marvelous thing, this expression of human ideals in walls and windows."
(John Hays Hammond, Jr., Unpublished letter, 1929)
Hammond Castle: The Library
My favorite room was designed as Thomas Jefferson had designed his library in the round where conversation could easily be heard across the room due to the acoustics.
Bill and I explore another Castle....
We started our drive at Dunkin Donuts. After some great coffee we took to the road driving through a small state park down a winding, twisting road until we came upon-- Hammond Castle. I said Bill let's stop here for a visit and I hope it's up to our castle standards. Bill said, well, let's take a look.
I can tell you it is an interesting castle to visit. Most of it is a recreation to look like part Norman castle, part Gothic Church with flying buttresses and some later add-ons to the castle. The historical artifacts, suits of armor, stained glass windows and sculptures all reach from originals to recreations. However, none of this detracted from the fact that you were viewing a lived in home and work place.
Me Hammond is considered the father of remote control and was at the forefront of the technology that now uses drone airplanes. We walk upstairs, downstairs (no dungeon) through the great hall, visited his work space where he did top secret work for the government during WW 2. My favorite room was the library. The room was designed as circular with books shelves lining the walls, ceiling murals and views overlooking the ocean.
I can tell you it is an interesting castle to visit. Most of it is a recreation to look like part Norman castle, part Gothic Church with flying buttresses and some later add-ons to the castle. The historical artifacts, suits of armor, stained glass windows and sculptures all reach from originals to recreations. However, none of this detracted from the fact that you were viewing a lived in home and work place.
Me Hammond is considered the father of remote control and was at the forefront of the technology that now uses drone airplanes. We walk upstairs, downstairs (no dungeon) through the great hall, visited his work space where he did top secret work for the government during WW 2. My favorite room was the library. The room was designed as circular with books shelves lining the walls, ceiling murals and views overlooking the ocean.
Sir William the Serious with arms crossed
Sir William the Grim: do I have to pose for another photo?
Sunday, July 29, 2012
Exploring the Coast: Rockport
I returned to the Inn to find Bill up and ready to roll. I took him to Duncan Donuts and got him his coffee and away we went to explore the Rockport coastline. The sun started to shine and the ride was easy and picturesque. We explored various inlets and roads looking for secret spots to hang out. There among the high hedges scatted along the ocean are "cottages" with wrap around terraces, porches and multi level terraces. A quiet coastline with winding tree lined roads.
At one point on our drive, we saw a small beach but the sign said do not entered from on part of the road. I figured we needed to loop around and find the entrance to the beach. Not an easy talk when many roads a private driveways and others dead ends. We did mange to circle the beach. We tried finding a place to park as most parking you needed a resident permit. We finally found a place and walked to the rocky beach. The rocky beach made it perfect for us to search for stones to skim on the water. After enough skimming, we walk and found another beach a short distance from our car. This beach had pristine sand, and ocean for as far as the eye could see. We located ourselves and nice bench we we sat in the sun and watched the kids play in the ocean. More people showed jptravels4fun@gmail.com with blankets, coolers and chairs to relax.
The day was getting humid so we decided enough of sitting and sweating. I mentioned to Bill to lets find this place Jack mentioned called Rocky Neck in Gloucester. The ride back was uneventful until we started reading signs to Rocky Neck. A wrong turn handed us a golden opportunity to view the coastline line along Atlantic Avenue. The fortuitous occasion of getting lost afforded us the opportunity to see a number a wonderful hotels and Inn right on the water for future reference. I can not tell you how many time when you travel some wrong turn or mistake turns into a great day.
In travel like in life it is not about content, the getting from place to place but about process what goes on internally, moments of self reflection, or as with travel the getting lost leads to finding a new way.
We ended up eating at MadMax fish grille right on the water. It was here as we ate overlooking the harbor that this monstrosity to opulence of a yacht docks right in front of the restaurant ruining everyone's view. The owner comes up to the restaurant and mentioned to me and Bill how we look relaxed, enjoying ourselves. I said we were until you parked that thing and ruined our view. I told him a gentlemen from the old school would pay for our bar tab to make up the inconvenience. Bill started laughing. The guy laughed and walked away. Bill said I guess he was no gentlemen. He is probably some nickel millionaire ready to go bust.
At one point on our drive, we saw a small beach but the sign said do not entered from on part of the road. I figured we needed to loop around and find the entrance to the beach. Not an easy talk when many roads a private driveways and others dead ends. We did mange to circle the beach. We tried finding a place to park as most parking you needed a resident permit. We finally found a place and walked to the rocky beach. The rocky beach made it perfect for us to search for stones to skim on the water. After enough skimming, we walk and found another beach a short distance from our car. This beach had pristine sand, and ocean for as far as the eye could see. We located ourselves and nice bench we we sat in the sun and watched the kids play in the ocean. More people showed jptravels4fun@gmail.com with blankets, coolers and chairs to relax.
The day was getting humid so we decided enough of sitting and sweating. I mentioned to Bill to lets find this place Jack mentioned called Rocky Neck in Gloucester. The ride back was uneventful until we started reading signs to Rocky Neck. A wrong turn handed us a golden opportunity to view the coastline line along Atlantic Avenue. The fortuitous occasion of getting lost afforded us the opportunity to see a number a wonderful hotels and Inn right on the water for future reference. I can not tell you how many time when you travel some wrong turn or mistake turns into a great day.
In travel like in life it is not about content, the getting from place to place but about process what goes on internally, moments of self reflection, or as with travel the getting lost leads to finding a new way.
We ended up eating at MadMax fish grille right on the water. It was here as we ate overlooking the harbor that this monstrosity to opulence of a yacht docks right in front of the restaurant ruining everyone's view. The owner comes up to the restaurant and mentioned to me and Bill how we look relaxed, enjoying ourselves. I said we were until you parked that thing and ruined our view. I told him a gentlemen from the old school would pay for our bar tab to make up the inconvenience. Bill started laughing. The guy laughed and walked away. Bill said I guess he was no gentlemen. He is probably some nickel millionaire ready to go bust.
The essentials....
I woke up in the early morning to see a misty fog rolling in off the water. The smell of the salt air filled my nostrils as i took in a deep breath and enjoyed the sent of the seaport. I walked to the local store and picked up a few papers to read. I now had to locate a little coffee shop for the morning habit of caffeine and a place to read. A block or so down from the paper store was a placed called morning glory. A hash house with outside tables and only served breakfast.
I walked in and was promptly told by the old battle ax waitress/owner that they were closed. She informed me in that she got a late start. I sat outside until they were prepared to open. She came over to me and took my order and told the help to get a dry rag to wipe down the tables. This was the kind of woman who would have no problem cuffing you around if you got out of line. She should of ran a bar or a bordello. The coffee was coffee. I finished my coffee and walk down Main Street looking for a place to do laundry. About 6-7 blocks down, I came across a laundromat dropped our clothes off and went back to the Inn.
I walked in and was promptly told by the old battle ax waitress/owner that they were closed. She informed me in that she got a late start. I sat outside until they were prepared to open. She came over to me and took my order and told the help to get a dry rag to wipe down the tables. This was the kind of woman who would have no problem cuffing you around if you got out of line. She should of ran a bar or a bordello. The coffee was coffee. I finished my coffee and walk down Main Street looking for a place to do laundry. About 6-7 blocks down, I came across a laundromat dropped our clothes off and went back to the Inn.
Another Passport.....
Another evening an time to look for a place to eat. Jack had recommended a place called Passports. A quaint, seafood place on the corner by the waterfront. I had stuffed haddock that was excellent and Bill had a crab meat BLT which he enjoyed. They serve dinner with fresh warm popovers that are divine. I had a Raspberry beer and Bill his usual Malbec. The place was a hit and worth a return engagement. Afterwards, we walked on the waterfront before retiring to the Inn.
I noticed I inadvertently caught myself on camera through the reflection of the glass window.
Saturday, July 28, 2012
The Inn
This ancient house overlooks Gloucester Harbor and is across the boulevard from the famous statue, "The Man at the Wheel".
We believe that the oldest part of the house was built by Samuel "Cut" Stevens about 1750. His nickname derives from the fact that he also owned the "Cut", a nearby canal linking the Annisquam River to Gloucester Harbor. He was a descendant of shipwright William Stevens who settled in Gloucester in 1642 and owned a large land grant at that time which included the site of the house.
During the early 19th century the building was probably a tavern. In the Civil War period it was owned by members of Gloucester's famous Babson family, who probably added the western wing. The building shows on an 1876 zoning map with the western wing, and with ownership by Fitz J. Babson.
The eastern wing is more recent, dating to about 1925, during the period when our street was changed to a boulevard with many houses moving to make room, and the statue was erected memorializing Gloucester fishermen.
In the 1950's it was the home of Rita Dunphy and her daughter Suzanne Silveira, from whom we (Paul Jensen and Donald Roby) bought the house in 1994.
After extensive renovation while continuing use of the house as a multi-family dwelling, we opened The Inn at Babson Court in July 1999, converting two apartments to three suites of guest rooms. Our original intent was to convert other space still being rented as apartment to additional suites but that hasn't happened yet. We'll see!
Each of the guest suites is named for someone we believe was a previous owner of the house.
We believe that the oldest part of the house was built by Samuel "Cut" Stevens about 1750. His nickname derives from the fact that he also owned the "Cut", a nearby canal linking the Annisquam River to Gloucester Harbor. He was a descendant of shipwright William Stevens who settled in Gloucester in 1642 and owned a large land grant at that time which included the site of the house.
During the early 19th century the building was probably a tavern. In the Civil War period it was owned by members of Gloucester's famous Babson family, who probably added the western wing. The building shows on an 1876 zoning map with the western wing, and with ownership by Fitz J. Babson.
The eastern wing is more recent, dating to about 1925, during the period when our street was changed to a boulevard with many houses moving to make room, and the statue was erected memorializing Gloucester fishermen.
In the 1950's it was the home of Rita Dunphy and her daughter Suzanne Silveira, from whom we (Paul Jensen and Donald Roby) bought the house in 1994.
After extensive renovation while continuing use of the house as a multi-family dwelling, we opened The Inn at Babson Court in July 1999, converting two apartments to three suites of guest rooms. Our original intent was to convert other space still being rented as apartment to additional suites but that hasn't happened yet. We'll see!
Each of the guest suites is named for someone we believe was a previous owner of the house.
Master Bedroom
Gloucester: The History
Gloucester, Massachusetts
America's Oldest Seaport
Gloucester, founded in 1623, was the first settlement in Massachusetts Bay Colony by the Dorchester Company, the first fishing expedition sent from England. Settling near our current downtown, they used the high, clear field of Stage Fort Park to set up fishing 'stages' for drying their catch. Life was very difficult and farming the rocky soil was near impossible. As you make your way around Cape Ann you can see the granite ledge sitting just under the surface and erupting through the soil. Granite quarrying was pursed in earnest in the mid-1800's but had all but disappeared by 1930. Many of the abandoned quarries are now used as water reservoirs and swimming in the summer. A beautiful example of a granite quarry can be found at Halibut State Park on the northern tip of Cape Ann.
Other early famous visitors to Cape Ann were the French explorer Samuel de Champlain and Captain John Smith of England. In 1606, during his second visit, Champlain named Gloucester harbor 'Le Beau Port' on a hand drawn map. In 1614, Captain Smith bestowed the name 'Tragabigzanda' to the area. Apparently, Captain Smith was fond of the ladies as this was the name of a Turkish princess. King Charles thought it best to rename the Cape after his mother, Queen Anne. Eventually, the 'e' was dropped and the name stuck.
Officially incorporated in 1642, the town green was located at Grant Circle (the first rotary). You can visit a first period house on Cape Ann right here. The White-Ellery House dates from 1710 and is open for tours the first Saturday of the summer months. While most will agree that 300 years is old, Gloucester's oldest house, a square-log style house that dates from 1645, was built 365 years ago. The Thomas Riggs House, named for the first schoolmaster, is located across from Annisquam and is now a bed and breakfast.
The local economy was comprised of fishing, small farms and logging. The center of the island was cleared and lumber was used for ship building and construction to all the communities south to Boston. In 1693, this area was settled, sparsely farmed and kept clear for 200 years. The area became known as Dogtown, for the widows of fisherman lost at sea kept dogs for protection before they turned to witchcraft. The last inhabitant died in 1830 and the settlement has gone to ruin. Scattered with stone walls, old root cellars and mysterious messages carved into the rocks, Dogtown has become a challenging venue for hikers, mountain bikers, historians and nature lovers.
Gloucester is geographically perfect for fishing. There is a deep and protected harbor. We are close to abundant fishing grounds of Georges Bank, Grand Banks, the Gulf of Maine and more. One of the top ten ports in America, Gloucester fisherman land cod, haddock, halibut, swordfish, flounder, sole, bluefish, bass, scallops, mussels, clams, lobster and more. Different methods of fishing make for a varied scene in our harbor. Some boats go out for a few hours, some for a few days and some for weeks at a time. Two movies filmed in Gloucester show the fishing industry in the 19th century and the 20th century, Captain's Courageous and The Perfect Storm.
They also show the dangers of going out to sea. Over 10,000 Gloucester fishermen have been lost to the sea. Half of these have been immortalized in lists stretching up the stairway of City Hall. Listed by year, it is sobering to see some of the really bad years, the obvious family members and that recent years still must be included. In 1925, 'the Man at the Wheel' Fisherman's Memorial Statue was installed on Stacy Boulevard as a monument to 'They That Go Down To The Sea In Ships'.
The on-shore support for the fishing industry has grown along with the catch. Gorton's of Gloucester was the first processor to 'flash-freeze' fresh fish to sell nationwide. Gloucester Seafood Display Auction conducts live auctions daily to participants that can bid on-line. Cape Pond Ice, established in 1848, still provides the ice that fish are packed in after being caught. There is cold storage, marine railways, bait vendors, boatyards, marine equipment and suppliers, boat surveyors, net makers, processors and seafood brokers and retailers.
Gloucester harbor also provided something besides fish. Artists flocked to our area starting in the mid-1800's. The stunning scenery, mystical light and bustling harbor inspired almost every American artist of note during the next 150 years. Many settled together in a small peninsula of land that jutted out from East Gloucester into the harbor - Rocky Neck. Rocky Neck Art Colony is America's oldest working art colony featuring the galleries of many different artists, shops and restaurants.
Gloucester has had a long love affair with the ocean. From the first fishing schooner launched in 1713 to the inspiration for famous painters throughout the ages, we have lived, worked and breathed the ocean for centuries. We love the crashing waves of a fierce nor'easter, the gentle surf of the summer, the steel gray of an overcast day, the bright blue that is sharp and clear and even the fog banks that slink across the rocks and blanket the houses without warning and then steal away just as silently.
Tourism exploded on Cape Ann in the last century. Trains brought affluent families to East Gloucester, Manchester and Annisquam for the summer months. Large rambling hotels sprung up all along the coastline. Boats hailing from Gloucester Harbor now took out weekend fishermen and touring couples. Watching the whales that congregate off our coast became a popular attraction that has become a multi-million dollar industry and earned Gloucester the name "Whale Watching Capital of the World".
America's Oldest Seaport
Gloucester, founded in 1623, was the first settlement in Massachusetts Bay Colony by the Dorchester Company, the first fishing expedition sent from England. Settling near our current downtown, they used the high, clear field of Stage Fort Park to set up fishing 'stages' for drying their catch. Life was very difficult and farming the rocky soil was near impossible. As you make your way around Cape Ann you can see the granite ledge sitting just under the surface and erupting through the soil. Granite quarrying was pursed in earnest in the mid-1800's but had all but disappeared by 1930. Many of the abandoned quarries are now used as water reservoirs and swimming in the summer. A beautiful example of a granite quarry can be found at Halibut State Park on the northern tip of Cape Ann.
Other early famous visitors to Cape Ann were the French explorer Samuel de Champlain and Captain John Smith of England. In 1606, during his second visit, Champlain named Gloucester harbor 'Le Beau Port' on a hand drawn map. In 1614, Captain Smith bestowed the name 'Tragabigzanda' to the area. Apparently, Captain Smith was fond of the ladies as this was the name of a Turkish princess. King Charles thought it best to rename the Cape after his mother, Queen Anne. Eventually, the 'e' was dropped and the name stuck.
Officially incorporated in 1642, the town green was located at Grant Circle (the first rotary). You can visit a first period house on Cape Ann right here. The White-Ellery House dates from 1710 and is open for tours the first Saturday of the summer months. While most will agree that 300 years is old, Gloucester's oldest house, a square-log style house that dates from 1645, was built 365 years ago. The Thomas Riggs House, named for the first schoolmaster, is located across from Annisquam and is now a bed and breakfast.
The local economy was comprised of fishing, small farms and logging. The center of the island was cleared and lumber was used for ship building and construction to all the communities south to Boston. In 1693, this area was settled, sparsely farmed and kept clear for 200 years. The area became known as Dogtown, for the widows of fisherman lost at sea kept dogs for protection before they turned to witchcraft. The last inhabitant died in 1830 and the settlement has gone to ruin. Scattered with stone walls, old root cellars and mysterious messages carved into the rocks, Dogtown has become a challenging venue for hikers, mountain bikers, historians and nature lovers.
Gloucester is geographically perfect for fishing. There is a deep and protected harbor. We are close to abundant fishing grounds of Georges Bank, Grand Banks, the Gulf of Maine and more. One of the top ten ports in America, Gloucester fisherman land cod, haddock, halibut, swordfish, flounder, sole, bluefish, bass, scallops, mussels, clams, lobster and more. Different methods of fishing make for a varied scene in our harbor. Some boats go out for a few hours, some for a few days and some for weeks at a time. Two movies filmed in Gloucester show the fishing industry in the 19th century and the 20th century, Captain's Courageous and The Perfect Storm.
They also show the dangers of going out to sea. Over 10,000 Gloucester fishermen have been lost to the sea. Half of these have been immortalized in lists stretching up the stairway of City Hall. Listed by year, it is sobering to see some of the really bad years, the obvious family members and that recent years still must be included. In 1925, 'the Man at the Wheel' Fisherman's Memorial Statue was installed on Stacy Boulevard as a monument to 'They That Go Down To The Sea In Ships'.
The on-shore support for the fishing industry has grown along with the catch. Gorton's of Gloucester was the first processor to 'flash-freeze' fresh fish to sell nationwide. Gloucester Seafood Display Auction conducts live auctions daily to participants that can bid on-line. Cape Pond Ice, established in 1848, still provides the ice that fish are packed in after being caught. There is cold storage, marine railways, bait vendors, boatyards, marine equipment and suppliers, boat surveyors, net makers, processors and seafood brokers and retailers.
Gloucester harbor also provided something besides fish. Artists flocked to our area starting in the mid-1800's. The stunning scenery, mystical light and bustling harbor inspired almost every American artist of note during the next 150 years. Many settled together in a small peninsula of land that jutted out from East Gloucester into the harbor - Rocky Neck. Rocky Neck Art Colony is America's oldest working art colony featuring the galleries of many different artists, shops and restaurants.
Gloucester has had a long love affair with the ocean. From the first fishing schooner launched in 1713 to the inspiration for famous painters throughout the ages, we have lived, worked and breathed the ocean for centuries. We love the crashing waves of a fierce nor'easter, the gentle surf of the summer, the steel gray of an overcast day, the bright blue that is sharp and clear and even the fog banks that slink across the rocks and blanket the houses without warning and then steal away just as silently.
Tourism exploded on Cape Ann in the last century. Trains brought affluent families to East Gloucester, Manchester and Annisquam for the summer months. Large rambling hotels sprung up all along the coastline. Boats hailing from Gloucester Harbor now took out weekend fishermen and touring couples. Watching the whales that congregate off our coast became a popular attraction that has become a multi-million dollar industry and earned Gloucester the name "Whale Watching Capital of the World".
The next stop & a great find...
We took the long boring drive down Route 1 all the way to Newburyport. The only good think was we found a Starbucks and got Bill his carmel frappunicco. At
Newburyport, we switched to Route 1A which was more scenic that lead is to 133 east into the town of Gloucester Ma. It was about 3:30 and I figured a good time to stop in places and get a room. Our first try was at The Cape Ann Marina. A full service resort that looked over the water. with pool, hot tub, massage etc. I saw one of the room and was not impressed but it would do if we could get nothing else. Further down I saw a sign for a visitor information center. I stopped in and they gave me a list of only a few places that had rooms available.
I called a couple or three that looked interesting but no one had rooms for 2 nights. I then looked over this somewhat interesting brochure of an Inn on the main street overlooking the water. I called spoke to Paul and he said he had suites available or $155 a night. I jumped on it and said we would be right over.
We could not believe our good fortune when we were showed to our 3 bedroom suite overlooking the water. Bill (and I as well) was impressed with the design of the house. Tastefully decorated, immaculately clean, Paul show us around his Inn as well as home. The Inn consisted of 3 suites, an apartment and Paul's apartment as well. Our suite on the second floor has beam, cathedral ceilings, claw foot tub bathroom, a sitting room/bedroom flanked by a master bedroom and a second bedroom. Throughout the Inn Victorian touches abound, with sculptures, original drawings and carpets throughout the suite.
We checked in and took a walk along the water.
Newburyport, we switched to Route 1A which was more scenic that lead is to 133 east into the town of Gloucester Ma. It was about 3:30 and I figured a good time to stop in places and get a room. Our first try was at The Cape Ann Marina. A full service resort that looked over the water. with pool, hot tub, massage etc. I saw one of the room and was not impressed but it would do if we could get nothing else. Further down I saw a sign for a visitor information center. I stopped in and they gave me a list of only a few places that had rooms available.
I called a couple or three that looked interesting but no one had rooms for 2 nights. I then looked over this somewhat interesting brochure of an Inn on the main street overlooking the water. I called spoke to Paul and he said he had suites available or $155 a night. I jumped on it and said we would be right over.
We could not believe our good fortune when we were showed to our 3 bedroom suite overlooking the water. Bill (and I as well) was impressed with the design of the house. Tastefully decorated, immaculately clean, Paul show us around his Inn as well as home. The Inn consisted of 3 suites, an apartment and Paul's apartment as well. Our suite on the second floor has beam, cathedral ceilings, claw foot tub bathroom, a sitting room/bedroom flanked by a master bedroom and a second bedroom. Throughout the Inn Victorian touches abound, with sculptures, original drawings and carpets throughout the suite.
We checked in and took a walk along the water.
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